By Barry Zander, Edited by Monique Zander, the Never-Bored RVers
Going out in a panga into Bahia de los Angeles, a bay on the Sea of Cortez, seemed a more interesting diversion than sitting by our travel trailer looking out to sea. After all, by the time our caravan pulled into this scruffy little Mexican town in Baja California, we were ready for more adventure.
The Never-Bored RVers were far from disappointed by their decision to shell out $34 each to cruise around the bay. As soon as our skipper, Joel, launched us onto the rich blue waters, we were getting our money’s worth. I quickly spotted a whale’s spouting mist high into the warm air a quarter-mile ahead of us.
It was a finback whale, the second longest animal on our planet, and it was right there in front of us. American naturalist Roy Chapman Andrews called the fin whale “the greyhound of the sea… for its beautiful, slender body is built like a racing yacht and the animal can surpass the speed of the fastest ocean steamship1.” But, after two days in Guerrero Negro on the Pacific side of Baja, would this be an anti-climax?
Not for a second. While we didn’t see a breach (where the whale comes out of the water) or a spyhop (similar to a breach, but this is when the whale goes straight up to look around the surface of the water). The broad dark tail fins (flukes) glistening in the morning sun excited members of our two boats time after time.
Attention to their performances was often interrupted by the dramatic dives of the blue-
footed booby – yes, there is such a thing, and that’s the real name. A dozen times each minute, these sleek seabirds circled and dove from heights of up to 100 feet at 60 miles an hour into the choppy waves. Tough way to feed a seafood habit, but cheaper than a rod, reel and boat.
In my excitement to relate our mini-cruise, I’ve blurted out lots of words and chose some appropriate pictures … and at that point, we had more than three hours remaining before turning toward our dock. There will be much more in Part 2, but before turning to starboard, I’ll spend a moment to talk about Joel [pronounced “Hoel”], the enterprising captain of our craft.
“Joel, how did you learn to speak English so well?” asked a shipmate. “I have learned from friends and Americans who come down here, but if you ask me about anything other than the boat, the bay and the animals we see, I don’t know.” He did know a lot about his environment and was very capable of explaining it all to us and answering questions. A smart man.
And his interest in learning has been passed along to his son, a marine biologist, and daughter, a college student in philosophy. I mention this because, despite our being surrounded by a totally different culture than what we experience in the States and in Canada, we met many educated locals. And those I encountered who understood no
English were very friendly, which we found very welcoming when pulling into a Pemex gas station and not knowing how to say “Fill it up.” Stay tuned for Window Island and Skull Island, clamming and more.
1 This and corroboration of other facts was through Wikipedia.
From the “Never-Bored RVers,” We’ll see you on down the road.
© All photos by Barry Zander. All rights reserved